Hey man, I contacted wahoo about compatibility problem you listed above and they recommend getting a sunlite 12s cassette that is an 11-50. They don’t have one with the same gearing available, but I use erg mode and the bike works great on the trainer.

16. The carbon-fiber braking scoops are a $195 option. This is sort of like being charged more for guacamole; yes, I know it’s extra, and no, I don’t care. The RSV4 1100 needs air ducts to complete the look. They have a functional benefit as well, as engineers claim that the scoops reduce heat in the brakes and lever stroke extension (fade) to the tune of 20 percent in comparison to a bike not utilizing them.

– Our shifter-actuated dropper option adds closer to 370g when cable and housing are taken into consideration (dropper weight is ~485g for the 110mm travel option). And as Cliff alludes, the improvement in performance and fun-factor makes it worth every gram.

The price with battery and charger is going to set you back $119 or $69.99 for the bare tool if you already have Worx batteries. That’s a bit more than I’d pay for this tool on a whim. But having tested it out, that’s a fair price considering its 3-year warranty. Just keep in mind that it’s a good tool for cleaning and maintenance tasks but you’ll still need a pressure washer for the really tough jobs. As long as you consider those expectations, I think you’ll find plenty of uses for it around the house.

My second question is about my ’76 CJ-7 with the T-18 transmission. I’ve heard bad things about this particular year T-18. I’m not positive of the year of mine because the Jeep was a conglomeration of parts when I bought it 25 years ago. It has the numbers 13-01-097-901 cast in behind the shifter. On the driver’s side below the shifter is a stamped, riveted tag with T-18-1B on it. Below that tag is a cast in WG DIV. What exactly do I have and what are the shortcomings and positives?Vinny Eckes Via facebook.com/JohnCappa4x4

1) Bars: Drop or Tri/TT (this dictates which shifters)2) Brakes: Disc or traditional rim (this also dictates shifters/brakes)3) Drivetrain: 1x or 2x (1x would be common for off-road, whereas 2x is more common on-road), and also if you want it aero or not4) Power meter: Integrated or later upgradeable

The marketplace determined a while back that professional jobsite table saws should feature 10-inch blades powered by 15-amp motors with convenient, folding stands with wheels for transport and storage. There are exceptions to the rule but, by-and-large, that’s what you’ll find. Yet Pro table saws are different in rip capacity, fence design, build quality, RPMs, and several other features. The newest Hitachi table saw is the Japanese company’s solution to jobsite cutting needs. It appears to be a contender for all-around table saw excellence, but can it really live up to the hype?

The limitation of the shorter chainstays is that with 700c wheels, 40mm is the tire clearance limit, perhaps 42mm with a squeeze.

Toyota also has had the luxury to build the same truck for over a decade. They will soon have to replace it and get out of their comfort zone.

The 50% trade in is all well and good but a) by my calculations you’re adding $100 to each chain ring change which is absurd and b) you’re essentially gambling on the replacement power meter not being more expensive. Plus that is a hideous looking chainset!

Austin Harris is the biggest let down given his years of raging against politicians like Alden McLaughlin Moses Kirkconnell and Joey Hew. He sold out and just needs to come out. Better enjoy his position as a one term wonder.

For the next pass, I raised the launch rpm from 1,800 to 2,000. That felt like a much better, less boggy launch, but there was still no tire spin—which would tell me I’d found the limit of what the track could offer in terms of grip. There was still more to be found. Finally, on the last pass, I increased my launch to 2,200 rpm, then rolled on the throttle even quicker. The Challenger squirmed for a couple hundred feet as I corrected its heading with minor steering input and throttle progression. Having been down a drag strip thousands of times, my experience told me that one was the run—it was right on the edge of grip, like threshold braking but in the opposite direction. I wish I knew what that time was. Of course, when I returned the car after my passes, those who had already made theirs asked, "What did you run?" I said, "I dunno. The board isn’t on." "We know," they said, "but what did the onboard quarter-mile timer say?" Somewhere between rubbing my belly and patting my head, I had forgotten to switch the Performance screen to the onboard timer page. According to online Challenger forums, the timer is fairly accurate; it’s sometimes 0.01 second slow or fast, but it’s close enough to be comparable to an actual drag strip timer. Most said they read low 12s.